Laser Hair Removal


What is Laser Hair Removal?

Laser hair removal—also known as phototricholysis or photoepilation—is a medical procedure performed by a specially-trained laser specialist or a doctor, depending on the clinic, that uses a laser to remove unwanted hair from the body.  During treatment, a laser beam passes through the skin to an individual hair follicle, the intense heat of which damages the hair follicle and inhibits future hair growth.

These lasers are capable of causing localized damage by selectively heating dark target matter—melanin—in the area that causes hair growth (the follicle) without heating the rest of the skin.  Because light is absorbed by dark objects, laser energy can be absorbed by dark material in the skin.

Melanin occurs naturally in the skin (it gives skin and hair its color), of which there is two types:  "eumelanin" (which gives hair its brown or black color) and "pheomelanin" (which gives hair its blonde or red color).  Due to the selective absorption of photons of laser light, only black or brown hair can be removed successfully.

Note, however, that the FDA prohibits manufacturers from claiming that laser hair removal is either painless or permanent unless they determine there is sufficient data to support such claims.  As a result, most manufacturers claim "permanent hair reduction" as opposed to "permanent hair removal."  So although laser treatments will permanently reduce the total number of body hairs, they will not result in a permanent removal of all hair.  Again, permanent hair reduction does not necessarily imply the elimination of all hairs in the treatment area.


Am I a candidate?

While laser hair removal can be performed on almost any skin color and hair type, hair color is the most important factor in determining success.  Because the light emitted from the laser is attracted to the melanin in the hair follicle (as outlined above), dark hair is treated most effectively, while treatments performed on red, blonde, and gray hair are generally not as effective.


What hair can I remove?

Hair removal is commonly done on lip, chin, ear lobe, shoulders, back, underarm, abdomen, buttocks, pubic area, bikini lines, thighs, face, neck, chest, arms, legs, hands, and toes.


How many sessions will it take?

Generally, a set of 4-6 treatments at 6-10 week intervals—depending on the type of hair and skin color—are required for long-term reduction of hair.  The number of sessions depends on various parameters, including the area of the body treated, skin color, coarseness of hair, etc.  Coarse dark hair on light skin is easiest to treat, while hair on darker skin is harder to treat.  Finer hair is only sometimes affected, while select areas may require considerably more treatments to achieve desired results.

After 4-6 treatments, patients should see a 70-90% hair reduction, though results will vary based on the parameters listed above.

Please note that even after all initial laser hair removal treatments, many patients still require maintenance sessions once or twice per year to maintain their ideal image.


Are there any risks?

The most common side effects of laser hair removal include skin irritation and pigment changes.

Skin irritation can include itching, crusting, scabbing, redness and swelling around the treatment area.  These side effects shouldn't last more than a few days.

Pigment changes may darken or lighten the affected skin, though usually only temporarily.  Skin lightening primarily affects those who have darker skin, especially if an incorrect laser is used at an incorrect setting.

Other rare side effects include blistering, scarring or other changes in skin texture.


How should I prepare?

Be sure to choose a doctor who is board certified in a specialty such as dermatology or cosmetic surgery and has experience with laser hair removal.  If a physician's assistant or licensed nurse will do the procedure, make sure the doctor supervises and is available on-site during the treatments.  Be cautious about spas, salons or other facilities that allow nonmedical personnel to do laser hair removal.

Prior to treatment, schedule a consultation with the doctor.  He or she will use this visit to discuss your medical history, risks vs. benefits, expectations, pricing, etc.  The doctor will also offer advice on how to prepare for your laser hair removal (e.g. stay out of the sun (a tan increases the risk of side effects such as blistering and discoloration) and avoid plucking, waxing and electrolysis).

It's important to make sure the laser being used is best for your skin and hair type.  Ask for an explanation of the laser type being used (e.g. Alexandrite, Diode, Nd:YAG) and how it correlates to your skin type.  Alexandrite and Diode lasers are typically best for patients with light skin, while Nd:YAG lasers tend to be best for those with darker skin.

Pricing can also vary greatly, so it's a good idea to visit multiple clinics before making a decision.


What should I expect?

Prior to laser hair removal, you will be given special goggles to shield your eyes from the laser beam.  The doctor may or may not apply a topical anesthetic to your skin to reduce any discomfort during treatment.

During the procedure, the doctor will press a hand-held laser instrument to your skin.  Depending on the type of laser, a cooling device on the tip of the instrument or a cool gel may be used to protect your skin.  Still, you may feel a slight stinging sensation during treatment.  Your treatment area will determine the time it takes to complete.  A small area may only take a few minutes while a larger area, such as the back, may require as much as a couple of hours.

Upon completion, there may be slight swelling or redness for the first few hours.  A stinging sensation may also linger for a day or two, and it's possible you may experience some (or none) of the aforementioned side effects.  While healing from laser hair removal, wash your skin gently with soap and water.  Avoid any picking or scrubbing of the affected skin and try to avoid sun exposure for at least a week.


How can I find a clinic in my area?

You can, of course, check your local Yellow Pages or http://www.citysearch.com/ for listings in your area.  You can also try running a provider search on the laser manufacturer websites (Cutera and Candela Corporation offer this option on their websites), or perhaps search for your city name on any laser hair removal forum using the search function and read about others' experiences.